Chisels are versatile hand tools used for cutting, carving, and shaping materials such as wood, metal, and stone. Choosing the right chisel for a specific task is essential for achieving precision and quality in your work. This guide will walk you through the different types of chisels and how to use them effectively.
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Bevel edge chisels are one of the most common types used in woodworking. They have a thin blade with beveled edges, making them ideal for fine, delicate work like fitting joints, trimming, and paring. These chisels are perfect for getting into tight corners and detailed carving tasks.
How to Use: Bevel edge chisels are typically used with a mallet for controlled cuts. Hold the chisel at a shallow angle when paring and apply even pressure for precise results. When working on joints, ensure the bevel edge chisel fits into the recess without forcing it, which could damage the workpiece.
Cold Chisel
Mortise chisels are designed for cutting deep, square holes (mortises) in wood. They have thick, sturdy blades that can withstand heavy mallet strikes, making them ideal for cutting through tough materials. These chisels are used in joinery to create mortise and tenon joints, commonly seen in furniture making.
How to Use: Mortise chisels are used with a mallet to create deep cuts. Start by marking the mortise outline on the wood, then make a series of cuts along the marked lines. Gradually chisel out the material inside the mortise, ensuring even and steady pressure with each strike.
Paring chisels have long, thin blades and are used for fine, delicate paring work, such as smoothing surfaces and trimming joints. These chisels are not meant for heavy striking with a mallet but are instead used for hand-controlled, light cuts. The long blade offers excellent control and precision.
How to Use: Paring chisels are used by hand, without a mallet. Hold the chisel at a shallow angle to the workpiece and use smooth, controlled strokes to remove thin layers of material. Paring chisels are ideal for refining the fit of joints and creating clean, precise surfaces.
Firmer chisels have thicker, rectangular blades that make them stronger and more robust than bevel edge chisels. These chisels are designed for general woodworking tasks and can handle heavier work, such as rough shaping and carving. They are suitable for tasks where more force is needed.
How to Use: Firmer chisels can be used with or without a mallet, depending on the task. For heavier cuts, strike the chisel with a mallet, ensuring the blade is held securely. For lighter tasks, use hand pressure to guide the chisel along the workpiece.
Cold chisels are used for cutting and shaping hard materials like metal and stone. They are made from hardened steel and have a flat cutting edge designed to withstand heavy strikes from a hammer. Cold chisels are commonly used in metalworking for cutting through bolts, rivets, and other metal parts.
How to Use: Cold chisels are used with a hammer. Position the chisel on the metal and strike it with the hammer to create a cut. Make sure to wear protective gear, such as safety glasses, to protect yourself from flying metal chips during use.
Flat Cold Chisel
Gouge chisels have a curved blade, making them ideal for scooping out material and creating concave shapes. They are commonly used in wood carving and sculpting to add intricate details to projects. Gouge chisels come in different sizes and curvatures, allowing for versatility in shaping work.
How to Use: Gouge chisels are typically used by hand, though light mallet strikes can be used for deeper cuts. Hold the chisel at a slight angle and push or pull it along the surface of the material to create the desired curve. Adjust the pressure based on the depth of cut needed.
Q: What is the main difference between a bevel edge chisel and a firmer chisel?
A: Bevel edge chisels are thinner with beveled edges for fine, detailed work, while firmer chisels have thicker, rectangular blades for heavier woodworking tasks.
Q: Can I use a cold chisel on wood?
A: Cold chisels are designed for cutting metal and stone, so they are not suitable for woodworking. For wood, use chisels like bevel edge or firmer chisels instead.
Q: How do I sharpen my chisels?
A: To sharpen chisels, use a sharpening stone or honing guide. Hold the chisel at the correct angle and move it back and forth on the stone to create a sharp, even edge.
Understanding the different types of chisels and how to use them will enhance your craftsmanship and allow you to choose the right tool for each task. With the proper technique and maintenance, chisels can be powerful tools for a wide range of projects.
Punches and chisels have been in use for centuries. In fact, next to striking tools they are likely the oldest tools in the history of humanity.
In prehistoric times these tools were used for performing survival tasks such as carving wood, forming stone, and preparing and fabricating clothing.
Today hand held punches and chisels are used for removing pins and bushings, and cutting or splitting steel objects.
The words punch and chisel are often used generically; a close examination shows there are many types, shapes, designs and specific functions for these tools.
In this article, we will explore the different kinds available on the market today.
For more information, please visit Non-Sparking Chisel Tools.
Punches
Punches can be classified into two distinct types: hollow and solid.
Hollow punches are designed to puncture a surface, such as sheet metal or leather in order to create a hole. A hollow punch is easily identified by its "exit hole" located near the working end. The exit hole allows the punched material to be removed and discarded.
The working end can vary in shape and size depending on the hole required and the material being pierced. To protect the working end, it is recommended that a board made of either wood or plastic be placed between work surface and material being pierced. This board should be strong enough to protect the work surface and yet soft enough to prevent the working end from being damaged.
Solid punches are one-piece rod-shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer. They are typically used to drive objects such as pins or to form impressions on a work piece.
Solid punches can vary in diameter, length and tip depending on the job to be performed. Below is a brief description and characteristics of the most common solid punches.
Pin Punches-used to drive or remove pins, after been loosened by a taper punch.
Pin punches feature a long head the same diameter as the tip and meant for removing tension or solid pins. Care must be taken when selecting a pin punch.
The ideal size for a given project is one where the tip is smaller than the encasing hole yet large enough to make solid contact with the pin to be removed or driven.
Pilot Punches-also, known as roll pin punches, they are designed to drive or remove hollow tension pins, such as tapered & rolled or solid pins.
They feature a similar long head like a pin punch with the difference being that they have slight bump at the tip permitting insertion into a rolled pin.
Taper Punches-designed for loosening and driving pins. Taper punches can also be used to align existing holes in two or more work pieces prior to bolting or riveting.
Centre Punches-used to make a mark on a material where a hole will be drilled. When struck, a small indentation is made in the work piece.
The indentation allows a drill bit to pierce the material more easily, while preventing bit walking and possible marring of the work piece.
Prick Punches-essentially the same as the center punch only it is designed for use on soft materials such as wood, plastics, and thin sheet metal. Can also be used to scribe marking lines prior to cutting or riveting.
Aligning Punches-used to align two or more holes in order to permit the insertion of a fastener. Their tapered body shape allows holes to easily be gathered and aligned as the punch is inserted. This punch is not meant to be struck and therefore not recommended for driving pins, rivets, or bolts.
Using the correct punch style for the application goes a long way in maintaining its useful life.
The most common mistake mechanics make is grabbing a pin punch to break loose a pin when the proper tool to use would be a tapered punch.
A tapered punch is specifically designed to take the heavy pounding needed to loosen pins.
Using a pin punch to start the initial removal can damage punch and the part being driven. The result is reduced productivity and increased risk to personal safety.
The correct approach for breaking a pin loose is to start with a taper punch then switch to the pin punch to complete the removal.
For this reason, it is highly recommended that mechanics have a matching tapered punch for every pin punch in their toolbox.
Chisels
Like punches, hand tool chisels can be also classified into distinct types: wood, masonry, and metalworking.
For the purposes of this article we will focus on the metalworking chisels. Once again, similar to solid punches, metalworking chisels are one-piece rod shaped tools made of metal designed to be struck by a hammer.They are primarily used to cut or shape metal.
Below is a brief description and characteristics of the most common chisels.
Flat Chisels-the most common of all the metalworking chisels. Often also referred to as cold chisels. Flat chisels feature a flat wide tip (working end) with a cutting edge. The size of the chisel is determined by the width of the tip. Common uses for a flat chisel are breaking chain, removing burrs, and cutting bolts.
Rivet Buster Chisels-share the same characteristics as flat chisels with the exception that the cutting edge is offset not centred. The offset design allows the chisel to lay flat and easily slide under the rivet to be removed.
Diamond-Point Chisels-Get their name from the distinct diamond shaped point. Are designed to punch holes and make V-shaped grooves in sheet steel.
Cape Chisels-feature a narrower cutting edge than flat chisels. Cape chisels are designed to square rounded corners in grooves or cut new grooves with square edges in steel.
Round Nose Chisels-similar to cape chisels, except instead of a straight edge they have a round edge on one side. The round edge allows them to cut grooves with round bottoms.
When used properly metalworking chisels are extremely useful for cutting steel objects and materials.
An important consideration when using any metalworking chisel is to be sure the object(s) being cut or worked is NOT harder than the chisel itself. Otherwise, the chisel&#;s point will dull or be destroyed.
If that happens, the best way to re-sharpen the chisel is to re-file the cutting edge using a hand file, not a grinder. Using a grinder could result in the chisel losing its temper.
Additional usage considerations include:
Ensuring that head diameter of the hammer is never more than 3/8" larger than head of chisel or punch.
Always use a proper punch or chisel holder. NEVER USE A PAIR OF LOCKING PLIERS as they will create sharp indentations that can endanger a user's hands when handling later on.
Always wear safety goggles.
Proper Maintenance of Punches and Chisels
Routine maintenance is a very important step in ensuring a long useful life of your punch and chisel.
As striking tools, most punches and chisels are deferentially tempered. That means the striking end is softer than the working end.
As such when any punch or chisel mushrooms on the striking end, it must be dressed to prevent the mushrooming pieces from chipping off and causing harm.
Conversely at the opposite end (working end) maintaining a sharp and clean edge ensures you a have tool that is safe and ready to complete a job properly.
Things Look For When Buying Your Next Punch or Chisel
It wise to consider the steel used as punches and chisels can be made from a variety of different steels each varying in strength and reliability.
A punch or chisel made from premium tool steel and optimally tempered will deliver a tool that has working end that maintains its edge and shape longer and has a striking end that is hard enough to be struck without chipping or cracking.
Additional thoughts:
Consider what is being cut or driven and determine the diameters, sizes and shapes needed to complete the project
If you are working in or near sparking working environments consider punches and chisels made of brass, copper beryllium or aluminum bronze.
Want more information on Non-Sparking Tools? Feel free to contact us.